Trekking in Patagonia |
Paris, El Calafate, Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine NP - Los Glaciares NP - Buenos Aires
Organized by TrekTrek, Slovenia
Duration: 19 days
Group size: 11
Tour guide: Luka Poznič
Photographs presented were taken with Canon PowerShot S2 IS digital camera, originally taken in 2592 x 1944 (5 MPixel) resolution and downsampled for the web site to 1280 x 960. Original photos are also available on a DVD version. Most images were digitally adjusted for optimal color and contrast to compensate for exposure errors. There are a total of 561 photos in this gallery, additional 35 were not included.
It goes without saying - click on any thumbnail for a larger picture.
Map of Patagonia |
Close up map |
Paris
For the journey we gathered at the Ljubljana Brnik airport, prepared for the first leg of travel to Buenos Aires via Paris, and we run into trouble right from the beginning. The Air France plane arriving from Paris was diverted to Zagreb due to thick fog at Ljubljana airport, and our Paris flight got cancelled. The airline arranged transfer to Paris via Muenchen, scheduled for a few hours later, but still allowing us to catch our connecting flight. Bad luck still hasn't run out yet though, the Muenchen - Paris flight was almost an hour late (yes, it was an Air France flight), and we got to Paris just minutes before the plane for Buenos Aires left. Despite sending a telex from Muenchen saying that we are coming, Air France staff on Charles de Gaulle airport took the route of least resistance. Instead of holding the plane, they stuck us in a hotel overnight and put on the next plane for Buenos Aires 24 hours later, creating some interesting logistical combinations for catching the last flight from Buenos Aires to Patagonia, sold out for some six months in advance. We couldn't have praised Air France enough...
Air France is going to Zagreb, and our flight is cancelled |
Muenchen - Paris flight is running late, and we miss the Buenos Aires flight |
Since we had a day to kill in freezing Paris instead of exploring Buenos Aires as originally planned, we tried to make the most of it and went sightseeing.
On the Paris metro | The Seine river | Notre Dame Cathedral |
Inside Notre Dame Cathedral |
On our way alongside Seine riverbanks | The Pompidou Centre |
Catching the feel of Paris in winter. Probably catching a cold as well... |
Hôtel de Ville | Entering the Louvre |
Louvre Pyramid |
Promenade to the Place de la Concorde | The National Assembly | Place de la Concorde |
Musée d'Orsay | Traffic on the Seine river | The Eiffel Tower | I'm not smiling here, I'm just freezing my ass off |
In the afternoon we hastily retreated to the warmth of our hotel, and in the evening were back at the Charles de Gaulle airport, to finally get ourselves to Buenos Aires.
A terminal at Charles de Gaulle airport |
Air France Airbus A330 getting prepped for passengers |
Buenos Aires - El Calafate - Puerto Natales
After 14 hours of night flight on a Boeing 777, we franticly disembarked at the Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport. After all the commotion with Air France, we were left with less than an hour of time to get our luggage, clear the customs, transfer to a smaller airport some 40 km away, and check-in on our last flight to El Calafate. There are no photos of the first Buenos Aires impressions, it was raining, and we were busy running.
Finally at the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, waiting for the final flight to El Calafate |
At least the El Calafate flight turned out to be considerably late as well. We made it with time to spare, and were back on schedule.
Landing in El Calafate, the first impressions of Patagonia's landscape while driving to the city |
The hostel in El Calafate we kept returning to in the next few weeks |
Taking on the El Calafate streets |
El Calafate is a small and friendly town, serving as the main gateway for travelers visiting the nearby Glaciers National Park, or proceeding south to the Chilean gem, Torres del Paine National Park. |
We spent the night in the hostel, and the next day we are going by bus to Puerto Natales, Chile, the main hub for visiting Torres del Paine national park.
Just outside of El Calafate is the Laguna Nimez bird reserve. Since we have a few hours of time left before taking a bus to the Chilean town of Puerto Natales, we pay it a visit. |
Kelp geese | Teros | Black-faced ibis | Flamingos |
Caracara | El Calafate is located at the banks of Lago Argentino, the largest lake in Argentina |
By the evening, we had arrived to Puerto Natales, sampled the local cousine at the dinner in one of the restaurants, and spent the night in one of the city hostels. The next morning we had a few hours left before catching the bus, and we went to see the town.
Puerto Natales, Chile is a small coastal town of colorful tin and wooden houses, and is regarded to be the basecamp town for visiting Torres del Paine. |
Strolling around Puerto Natales | If you have received a postcard from me, it came from this post office |
Torres del Paine National Park
Day 1 Refugio Laguna Amarga - Campamento Chileno |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
4 hours 12 km |
Fully loaded backpacks |
We carefully packed our backpacks for 7 days in the wild, leaving behind some nonessential items like travel and reserve cloths to minimize weight, and purchased supplies. We were planning on completing the "W" track in Torres del Paine, the shorter and more popular version of the complete circle. A bus will take us from Puerto Natales back up north to the entrance of Torres del Paine, and until evening we had to walk the distance to the first camp site, Campamento Chileno.
We are passing Hosteria las Torres, and proceeding into the valley ahead, Valle Ascencio |
At last, the roof of Campamento Chileno visible by the river |
Tents go up for the first time in our first camp. |
Day 2 Campamento Chileno - Campamento Torres - Torres mirador - Campamento Japones - Valle del Silencio - Campamento Chileno |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
9 hours 19 km | Light backpacks |
The second day in Torres del Paine was planned to be the most difficult one. The weather was exceptionally good, as we were after the most notorious viewpoint in the park, the view on the Torres themselves. Taking advantage of good conditions, we started early in the morning, postponing breakfast until we reach Torres.
Climbing on the last edge, facing Cerro Escudo |
A view from the top of Valle de Silencio back down to the valley |
Dark, shady walls rising above us |
From the top of Valle de Silencio we had started returning home to the Campamento Chileno, but we were quite a distance away. Tired already from long walking and some steep climbing, we spent one hour for the descent on slippery wet rocks to the bottom of the valley, and another two hours of fast paced trek along Valle Ascencio to our camp, awaiting hot dinner, and sleeping bags.
Exhausted after a long day, a welcome sight of the cabin and camp at Campamento Chileno |
Day 3 Campamento Chileno - Refugio los Cuernos |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
6 hours 14 km |
Fully loaded backpacks |
On the third day, we left Campamento Chileno and moved on to the next camp site, Refugio los Cuernos. While not the shortest in distance, and we were carrying full equipment, this section mostly runs flat and has probably the most beautiful nature experience in the park. Trail is going by many mountain streams and small lakes, in a nice, hot summer weather; we took our time for this one.
... and a beautiful view on the country below us | Path is taking us towards invitingly looking lakes |
Horses are used through the park to carry supplies to camps and refugios |
A view behind the flower |
Wild Patagonian scenery, with the trail running through |
Reaching the first marvelous lake |
One more stream to cross... |
... and we are on the beach |
Almirante Nieto raising above the lake |
Trekking between the two lakes |
A panoramic view of Lago Nordenskjöld | A crystal-clear stream with drinkable water |
Reflective surface of Lago Nordenskjöld | Crossing a small river |
The trail runs up in the banks, in parallel with the shore of Lago Nordenskjöld |
One more breathtaking view on Lago Nordenskjöld... |
...and Refugio los Cuernos' roof shows up behind the corner |
Yet another larger stream to cross... | ...and we set up our tents at camp Cuernos |
A bird came posing just a few meters away |
Berries at the camp site |
Dropping a few steps down to the lake shore |
Soaking our feet in the cold mountain lake after day's walk, enjoying perfect weather in late afternoon |
Camp site at Refugio los Cuernos |
Cooking pasta for dinner, a few cooks and plenty of supervisors |
Avalanches are rumbling down from Glaciar del Francés in the distance |
Day 4 Camping los Cuernos - Campamento Italiano* - Camping los Cuernos |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
2 hours 11 km | Light backpacks, water only |
Waking up on the fourth day in Torres, our luck with weather finally run out. It was raining in the morning, and it continued raining into the afternoon. We had a day prepared in reserve for cases like that, so we stayed in our tents, or gathered in the nearby cabin to wait out the weather.
It's dull and raining at Camping los Cuernos, low clouds extending almost to the ground | Stream carries more water than yesterday... |
Waves are high on the lake, as it is quite windy |
A view on the western part of Lago Nordenskjöld, in the afternoon, just after rain |
Heavy clouds are still hanging around mountain peaks... |
... but clearing up quickly |
The sun starts casting long shadows... |
...and shines last rays on the Cuernos... |
...as we return from the trek in under two hours |
Day 5 Camping los Cuernos - Campamento Italiano - Campamento Britanico - Los Cuernos mirador - Campamento Italiano |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
6 hours 18 km | Fully loaded backpacks up to Campamento Italiano |
After the rainy day, we were able to go on to the Valle del Francés. The trek was composed of two parts, the first goal being getting to the Campamento Italiano and set up our camp there, then proceed up the valley to Campamento Britanico, another hour of steep climbing up to the viewpoint, and return to Campamento Italiano by the evening.
Today we are going into the valley to the right |
Down by the lake again | The path to Campamento Italiano goes through a bushy slope |
Last views on the lake... |
A hanging bridge by the camp |
Yet another avalanche on Glaciar del Francés |
Glaciar del Francés is feeding a small lake | Rio del Francés flows down in the other direction |
Panoramic views of the glacier... | ...and black-topped Cuernos on the other side |
Behind us are the marvelous lakes |
Rio del Francés is a fast-paced one |
Distinctive Cuernos peaks are following us on the right |
Rocky walls are no less spectacular on the other side |
The trail takes us through open bushy fields, and into thick forest |
A welcome refreshment |
AVI Video Clip 640x480, 30fps, XVID, MP3 stereo (16 seconds, 5.22 MB) |
Returning down to Campamento Italiano, we stop once again at the Glaciar del Francés viewpoint |
Day 6 Campamento Italiano - Camping Lago Pehoé - Refugio Grey |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
7 hours 19 km | Fully loaded backpacks |
The sixth day was the last day of trekking in Torres del Paine, but it had made it up with the distance, weather, and the fact that we were walking with full gear. The plan was simple, pack up the camp in the morning, and move to Refugio Grey, our last camping site, passing Refugio and Camping Lago Pehoé on the way.
This time we are crossing that bridge |
Saying goodbye to the Francés glacier |
Trekking towards Lago Skottsberg |
It is an extremely windy day, wind gusts are throwing fine sand from the trail in our faces |
Lago Pehoé shows up in the distance |
Lago Pehoé has a distinctive greenish blue color |
At this point, my camera went back in the safety of my backpack, and we all brought out our rain gear. Heavy
wind was already bringing down first drops of rain, and we were sure we are going to get wet this time. We
no longer had any spare time to wait out the rain under Pehoé's roof, we had to make it to Refugio Grey that
day to stay on schedule.
Astonishingly, nothing happened. Clouds were dark and threatening, a few drops did sprinkle down on us in the
next two hours, but that was all there was to it. Eventually, I brought the camera back out just as Lago Grey
came into the view for the first time.
Refugio Grey is right ahead, on the beach near the peninsula end |
A chance for refreshment | The trail starts to drag on. Taking the last break. |
Some beautiful flowers by the trail |
We put up our tents | A few impressions from the beach by the Grey camping site |
Icebergs are such grateful subjects | Clouds are still there, but no longer threatening |
A flowing mass of ice awaits us just behind the corner |
Day 7 Refugio Grey - Hosteria Lago Grey (boat trip) |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
/ / | Fully loaded backpacks |
For the last day in Torres del Paine National Park, we went on a boat ride up close to the Glaciar Grey before returning by bus to the park's entry point at Refugio Laguna Amarga, and eventually by the evening back to our small hotel in Puerto Natales, where the rest of the luggage awaits us.
It's morning at Refugio Grey, and we are going boat riding |
A smaller boat picks up us and our backpacks at the beach, and delivers us to the Grey II |
The boat slowly takes us to the glacier's edge, first to the eastern part | Everybody get their cameras ready |
Big blocks of ice shine with a deep blue glow that appears out of this world |
Eastern part of Glacier Grey |
We get our own little icebergs |
Going around the island splitting Glacier Grey to the western side |
Larger, western side of glacier Grey |
Puerto Natales - El Calafate
We completed our Torres adventure with a dinner in Puerto Natales' local pub, where we were reunited with the rest of our luggage, and spent the last night in Chile in cute little Hotel Residencial Centro. In the morning, we are catching a bus back to Argentina, another 4 hours of driving on gravel roads back to El Calafate.
A local driver will help us take our luggage to the bus station |
One last photo of Puerto Natales, 8:20 AM is way too early for locals |
Five hours later, El Calafate, and our familiar hostel once again |
Los Glaciares National Park
Day 1 El Chalten - Cerro Torres (Laguna Torre) - El Chalten |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
6 hours 18 km |
Light backpacks |
After spending a night in El Calafate, we moved on to the second part of our trekking trip, the Los Glaciares
National Park with the famous Mt. Fitzroy as the main attraction. Los Glaciares NP is located about 200 km
north of El Calafate, and we went on yet another long and bumpy bus trip to the El Chalten, a small town that
will host our group for the next four days.
El Chalten is a village settled inside National Park Los Glaciares, and is the base for exploring the
park. All trails start in El Chalten, and are readily available for daily excursions in different
directions. While there are some native residents in El Chalten, during the season it consists almost
entirely of backpackers, hikers, and mountain climbers, occupying hostels, while locals provide
supporting services and small businesses.
We got settled in a backpacker's hostel, six persons per large room, and shortly after midday we had been trekking already to the first destination, Laguna Torre with a view on Cerro Torres mountain range and a glacier beneath.
Leaving El Chalten and going uphill | A typical scenery at Los Glaciares national park |
The valley with Cerro Torres and the glacier at the end |
Instead of trekking, you can go horse riding. |
The trail drops down to the bottom of the valley, going upstream near the river |
Almost there... | The goal for today, at the top of this dike |
This is what we came for, Laguna Torre with a glacier. Cerro Torres peaks are engulfed in clouds though. |
Hard, jagged rocks on peaks around us |
Time to return the same way, turning to El Chalten at the opening on the left |
El Chalten town welcomes us back in late afternoon |
Day 2 El Chalten - Fitzroy Mirador - El Chalten |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
3 hours 10 km |
Light backpacks |
The second day in El Chalten it was raining. It started at night, and it drizzled down on us until noon. We waited it out, taking a rest from the day before. In the afternoon, we decided to make a short trip to the Fitzroy viewpoint, not too far away from El Chalten, and on the same trail we would be taking the next day on the main trek to the Fitzroy basecamp.
Just outside El Chalten, we meet a rabbit |
A short break, some are swinging around, others evaluating a training climbing wall |
A river valley that stretches up north of El Chalten |
Heavy clouds still indicate recent rain |
Terrain here is covered with small, bushy trees | Goal for the day, Fitzroy viewpoint at Laguna Capri. Fitzroy is hiding in clouds. |
We see these ones around a lot |
On return to El Chalten clouds show signs of improvement |
In the evening, I go exploring El Chalten a bit, trying to get to know the city better. |
There is a school, wide gravel roads, and lots of small hotels, hostels, shops, restaurants,... |
In the evening, Fitzroy did clear up a bit, promising a better view tomorrow |
The day was concluded with a home cooked dinner at the hostel's open kitchen; a vegetable soup, pasta, and lots of pancakes.
Day 3 El Chalten - Fitzroy basecamp - El Chalten |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
7 hours 24 km |
Light backpacks |
The main event in Los Glaciares came up; we are going to Fitzroy base camp, no matter what the weather is, as we are running out of time. It's the last full day in El Chalten, and we're hoping for a clear view on the famous peak from up close. The trek to the basecamp and back is a long one, and it took us the whole day.
Heavy winds start blowing, spraying some raindrops from clouds around the peaks, and I'm having increasingly more problems keeping my camera lenses clean |
Improvised crossing |
Strong wind envelopes Fitzroy with clouds |
Getting across mountain river |
Camping site Poincenot is in the woods |
Crossing a river behind Poincenot, you don't want to slip here |
There on the top, that was the kind of wind that has to be experienced. As many as three members of our group have lost their glasses, as they were literally blown away off their faces. There was an Italian guy asking around about binoculars, last seen flying, and a group of elderly German tourists on all four, struggling not to go flying themselves. Finding some sort of a shelter behind any larger rock was a necessity.
Reaching destination | Several shots of the glacier and a small lake under Mt. Fitzroy while snuggled behind a large boulder |
If loosing balance due to the wind, landing would have been down there |
Some peaks were visible... |
...but Fitzroy itself was hiding |
On the western side high winds have cleared the sky |
Defying wind, having a snack |
Rain drops carried by the wind created a rainbow |
A view towards El Chalten, the town hiding just behind the shadowy ridge |
Crossing the river again, carefully over the narrow bridge |
Dusty trail passes through some wild, seemingly abandoned scenery |
The last view on the northern valley |
A lone house buried in a small forest... |
...and a lone tree by the trail... |
... while crossing open space |
Just making photos for the sake of it |
El Chalten welcomes us back through the trees from down below |
One final descent... | ...and we are back in the town |
Day 4 El Chalten - A picnic trek - El Chalten |
Daily map |
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Trekking time: Trekking distance: |
2 hours 4 km |
Light backpacks |
The last day in El Chalten, we were taking a bus back to El Calafate in the afternoon. After packing up and preparing our luggage for the trip, we decided to go out for a couple of hours on the last trek in Patagonia.
Before breakfast, I went outside the city past the park rangers' Gendarneria in order to shoot some photographs of Mt. Fitzroy in the morning light, weather conditions were rather favorable |
Getting ready for the last trek |
Fitzroy was clear, but clouds were gathering |
The park is full of small streams |
We are going just an hour or so out of the city, on the southern trail |
Now that's one interesting rock... | El Chalten and the northern valley, viewed from the southern hills |
We stopped at a small forest on the top before turning back |
Tying knots 101 |
The weather turned bad and it looked like it would start raining any second, so we had picked up the pace and returned to the town.
El Chalten - El Calafate - Buenos Aires
Later that day we left El Chalten by a regular bus line, endured another four hours of gravel joyride, and returned once again to El Calafate.
Wide gravel roads going through south Patagonia |
Looks familiar? It did to us, too |
After spending the third and last night in the well familiar hostel, some free time was available for last shopping and sightseeing in El Calafate. In the afternoon, we are driving to the airport and boarding a plane to Buenos Aires.
Having completed shopping, I walked down to the other side of El Calafate and took some photos off the beach road |
Above is a collection of some of the better photos taken during the three hours of flight over Argentina's landscape |
Reaching Buenos Aires, the airport is on the other side of the city, so we are flying over it |
Descending and turning to final approach, time to turn off the camera |
Buenos Aires
The first group arrived in Buenos Aires in late afternoon, the rest followed with separate flights a few hours later in the evening. As I was in the first group, after settling in the hostel for the last night in Argentina, we had time to go out into the city.
First real impressions of Buenos Aires city are from a minibus, taking us to our selected hostel |
In the evening, we went out to a well known shopping street, Calle Florida, to feel the beat of the city, South American temperament, and enjoy street performances |
We spent the last night in South America, and will be leaving for Europe in the afternoon. Since we didn't get to see much of Buenos Aires on arrival due to the commotion with Air France, we used up the remaining few hours to go sightseeing around the city. It's a hot, sunny summer day in Buenos Aires, the thermometer stopped at 34°C. It's hard to imagine there will be snow and winter again in 24 hours.
Visiting one of many artists shops on the Caminito street |
A view from above |
It's Sunday, little kids are playing, cheering, stealing cameras... |
Truck under repairs |
On Sundays, professional tango dancers take to the streets | A signer promoting her CD live. She's rather good, too |
Flea Market itself is crowded, mostly with tourists |
The last stop is on Calle Florida |
I stroll around to make a few more city shots |
Obelisk in the distance |
Time is up, we need to get going to the airport |
Buenos Aires - Paris - Ljubljana
The rest of the trip was fairly routine and uneventful. Checking on flights, waiting in lines, clearing controls; a long, almost 14 hours overnight flight on B-777 to Paris, a couple of hours on the Charles de Gaulle, and a quick two hours flight from Paris to Ljubljana. No major delays this time, and the adventure ends smoothly back at home.
Waiting for our plane in Paris, after nearly three weeks of traveling, our minds are already half at home |
Photographs contributed by other group members
Ljubo:
Barbara:
Alenka:
Mišo: